New Orleans, lovingly known as NOLA, is steeped in history. Every corner you turn there is a ghost haunting the quarter. Considering the French Quarter is built on a graveyard it shouldn’t be surprising that the for sale signs advertise “not haunted”. I have been on ghost tours in cities like Prague but something just seems more real about the stories in NOLA.
The city has a large group of Voodoo practitioners, if you want a love spell, a hex or a tarot reading there is always a shop nearby ready and able to assist. You enter through the old wooden door, the dust floats through the dimly lit small rabbit warren rooms as ethereal music floats through the air. Containers of different herb bundles promising to assist with love, health and money cover the walls. Voodoo dolls are stacked high and temples with offerings are found in the bowls of the store. Anything is available for a price.
Grab a cyclone (or drink of your choice) and wander down Bourbon street. It is almost as though the music is coming from the footpath itself. Every door I pass has the sounds of live music that flows through the city, from rock and roll, classic jazz, rap to blues there is something for everyone. Men stand on the street holding signs advertising “big arse beers” and people are filling the streets from sunup to sunup. People hang off the french style balcony above throwing beads and shouting at the people on the street. Even when it isn’t Mardi Gras the city is celebrating.
In NOLA a street busker won’t get by with any kind of “simple ” set up. For a city that has perfected the art of the street celebration they need to bring something extra to impress. Passing the New Orleans Opera man with a feather boer thrown dramatically around his neck on a bicycle covered in flowers singing, walk a block to find a country band and tap dancer turn the corner and you run into a 6 piece big band. The city lives by the saying “go big or go home”
Suddenly a brass band begins walking towards you. The feathers and umbrellas float above them as a parade forms out behind. It is a second line and there is nothing else on earth quite like it. Jump on the back of the parade and join in the dancing and celebrating.
When you reach Frenchman street you will see a different side to the quarter. Make sure you stop in at the Spotted Cat for classic old-school jazz, see the Treme brass band at d.b.a and drop into BMC around the corner to see what’s new.
When you get tired walk away from the cacophony that is the French Quarter and walk to Jackson Square and eat a poboy in the sun or go further and wander next to the Mississippi river. There are old mansions to tour and St Louis Cathedral offers some relief from the heat and peace. There are so many different sides to NOLA, she isn’t just beads and beers. Be sure to spend some time and wander the different laneways of the city and you will be sure to find a beautiful experience you can’t find anywhere else.
The joy of this city is there is no judgement here.
You want to wear a pink tutu? Do it.
You want to throw your hands up in the air and dance? Do it.
You want to sit in the park and draw? Do it.
Just make sure you do what the city is telling you and let go of your inhibitions. And don’t forget to say hello to the ghosts for me!
Gypsy Heart Adventures 